Karlskrona is the seat of Karlskrona Municipality, Blekinge County, Sweden with 66,675 inhabitants in 2018. It is also the capital of Blekinge County. Karlskrona is known as Sweden's only baroque city and is host to Sweden's remaining naval base and the headquarters of the Swedish Coast Guard.

Unlike much of Sweden who has a matching falu red colour for their wooden homes, Karlskrona has a more Danish style, in keeping with its history as a Danish border area, with the houses in a variety of pastel colours. Many are older, particularly in the more industrial sectors, but remain in good condition and as homes. This is unlike other districts, who turn their old town into a museum-like Gamle Gävle or a quaint tourist area like Haga in Gothenburg.

As you go further north in Karlskrona the area becomes more residential, business and industry thrive by the port. The residential neighbourhoods are full of homes crowded on small islets onto the water.

Karlskrona is also the home of Sweden's coast guard, and I had the chance to see them preparing for the day by the ferry terminal, as well as seeing one of their larger boats at sunset.

Karlskrona is a very summer city, meaning many of the attractions and museums are only open in the summer months from the middle of June to the end of August. This means the archipelago ferries run a shorter service as well.

As one of the main defensive points for Sweden, and Denmark before it, Karlskrona has a long and proud naval history, and it shows everywhere. Scattered through the water are defensive towers, protecting the city from every direction.

Sights & Culture

Kronobageriet

A historic building at the entrance of Stumholmen island, the home of the maritime museum. It is an off-yellow colour and has a famed ice cream parlour on its ground floor.

Karlskrona Nedre Lighthouse

On the southwestern edge of Stumholmen, the Karlskorma Nedre Lighthouse is shorter than you'd expect for a lighthouse, standing less tall than the trees around it. It was built in 1918 and is still in use.

Bastion Kungshall

On the south-eastern tip of Stumholmen, the Bastion Kungshall stands proudly. With canons from different periods still lining the low stone wall, the building behind is not as well protected as you would expect. Two hundred years of peace have perhaps made Sweden a little complacent.

An occasional venue for Theatre, it is more commonly used as a point of interest.

Östersjöskolan

Facing Kronobageriet across the water, the Östersjöskolan is an impressive looking school that could easily be mistaken for a museum or country manor.

Bataljon Sparre

A square primarily used for parking now lies within the fortified town of Karlskrona. If you pay attention, you can see the outline of the original Bastion.

Monument to Admiral Hans Wachtmeister

Admiral General of the Swedish Navy, and appointed governor of Blekinge and Kalmar when the Naval base at Karlskrona was opened, the statue to him faces Stumholmen and the maritime museum.

Residenset

The Provincial Governors House

Bastion Aurora

The Bastion is a large stone wall on the edge of the water with a small park in front of it.

Sprungen ur boken

Just after Rosenbom and before you reach Bastion Aurora, you'll see a small statue of a child leaping out of a book.

Rosenbom

Also called Gubben Rosenbom, (Old Man Rosenbom) is a wooden statue who has stood outside the Karlskrona Admiralty Church for hundreds of years.

The original is now just inside the church doors to keep him safe from the weather with a replacement standing outside since 1956. The statue is a poor-box and carries a sign saying:

I humbly beg of you,
even though my voice may be weak,
come and put a penny in
but first, lift my hat.
Blessed are those that care for the poor.

Amiralitetskyrkan

The Admiralty Church, also known as Ulrica Pia in honour of Queen Ulrike Eleonora, is a small wooden building, set behind Bastion Aurora and playing host to Rosenbom.

The church was consecrated on 20th September 1685 and is Sweden's largest wood church. It is painted in traditional Swedish falu red.

Amiralitetsklockstapeln

Erected in 1699, it is positioned so that it sits centred and framed when one stands looking along Sodra Kungsgatan from Stortorget. Originally intended to improve working efficiency at the shipyard by informing the city of the time it sits on the spot chosen for the permanent church to replace the wooden Admiralty Church.

The permanent church was never built, and the Admiralty Church remains. It was not until 1909 that the belfry of the Clock Tower was used as the Admiralty Church's belfry.

Skeppsgossekåren

The home of the shipbuilding corps, just before the entrance to the port area is a large building with a statue of a sailor and ships wheel out front. The building was where young boys were recruited and trained in seamanship, after some time they would move to serve on Swedish vessels, eventually becoming skilled sailors.

The building is still in use, but primarily as office space to various companies.

Fredrikskyrkan

One of the more recognisable buildings in Karlskrona, Fredrikskyrkan is in the central square, Stortorget and has the somewhat typical square double spire at the front. Architected by Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, it is a baroque church inspired by Italian architecture. It was inaugurated in 1744 and was named after King Fredrik the First.

Although not significant compared to some Churches, even in Sweden, it dominates the square due to its central location and the ample pedestrian space around it.

The Swedish Church offers a film on the restoration of the church.

Karlskrona Stortorget

The main square of Karlskrona is situated at the nexus of the main streets. With Fredrikskyrkan on the east and the City hall on the West, the central square has a statue and is the regular venue for a market.

Trefaldighetskyrkan

On the edge of Stortorget, the Trinity Church is much smaller than Fredrikskyrkan but is older and more attractive in appearance. Inaugurated in 1709 it was architected initially by Nicodemus Tessin the Younger but was entirely destroyed in a fire in 1790, and the reconstruction followed the designs of Olof Tempelman. The new dome was neo-classical, and the internal paintings are designed to fool the eye and increase the sense of scale.

Vattenborgen

Vattenborgen was built-in 1861 as a water reservoir due to the cities problems maintaining adequate supplies of freshwater which was piped down from Lyckeby. With the construction of a station in Tyska bryggareberget, the Vattenborgen was decommissioned and was used as a Restaurant, pizzeria and sausage kiosk for many years before finally becoming home to The Kulenovic Collection of art.

Fiskargumman

One of the most famous examples of outdoor art in Karlskrona, Erik Höglund's Statue of Woman Selling Fish is in Fisktorget, one of the harbours where Karlskonas many ferries originate. The statue is a tribute to former inhabitants of the city mainly the fishermen.

Fisktorget

The Fish Market has been a vital entry point for trade and goods since the founding of the city in the seventeenth century. Its currently one of the main ferry ports for Karlskrona offering resident and tourists a route to the islands in the archipelago.

Several impressive works of art line the docks and the view of the bay surrounded by colourful houses is worth the walk.

Femfingerdockan

Five Finger Dock is one of the historical docks of Karlskrona and has been in continuous use for three centuries. Named due to the shape of the pier which resembles five fingers. The marina is not open to the public and is located behind the city walls. Protected by vigilant security guards, one of whom politely came out to ask if I had taken any photos and to prove that I had not.

Museums & Galleries

Marinmuseum

Located on Stumholmen, the Maritime Museum is spread through several buildings and set in a charming space.

Due to the Corona outbreak, the Maritime Museum was closed during my visit to Karlskrona. The Museums offers access to some of its collection digitally to encourage people to keep learning.

Even without going inside, you can walk the grounds and see several vessels, from older sailing ships to newer military ones.

Blekinge museum

Close to Fisktorget, Belking Museum is a good-sized building, set with fake windows down one street. The museum was closed for the Corona outbreak.

Albinsson & Sjöberg Museums

Albinsson & Sjöberg is actually two museums. In the main building just off the street and facing the water is the Porcelain Museum, showcasing examples of porcelain from Karlskrona and elsewhere.

In a building just behind the porcelain, the museum is the car museum, with automobiles from different periods in history.

Both museums are only open in the high summer, though private tours can be arranged by calling the museum out of these times.

Parks & Gardens

Trollskogen

The Troll Forest is found at the northern end of Dragsö, in the Dragsö Campsite. Follow the road all the way to the end of the island, past the pacifier tree, and you will start to see foot high trolls in the forest undergrowth. The forest is an excellent place to come with younger kids, who can explore the woods and find all of its residents.

Hoglands Park

Karlskrona's central park, the Hoglands Park is directly behind the main shopping mall and is quite spacious with a few pieces of art and a lot of cultivated flower beds. It is a place to walk and meet rather than play games or run.

A restaurant can be found at the north end of the park.

Wämöparken

Halfway between Karlskrona centre and Lyckeby, Wämöparken spreads out over a few kilometres. There is a bus stop just outside the park, but for more options, it is a fifteen-minute walk from Bergåsa station.

The park offers nature walks of various lengths through some lovely terrain as well as a small zoo of farm animals—pigs, chickens and similar.

There is also a small open-air museum of historic buildings and usually a cafe, though in May 2020 it was being refurbished.

Restaurants & Bars

Royal Thai

Centrally located on Rådhusgatan, Royal Thai is currently not offering buffet service due to Corona, but the menu is diverse, the portions large and the food is good.

Nya Skafferiet

Next door to Royal Thai, Nya Skafferiet also cancelled its buffet service but offers a set lunch menu for a reasonable price. A delicious plate of meats and cheeses, followed by quiche and salad was a lovely lunch.

Restaurang Montmartre

A little outside of most foot traffic, Monmartre, is likely one of the better restaurants in Karlskrona. Offering several Italian favourites, they also have an excellent dessert menu.

Biobaren

Although the cinema is closed, Biobaren remains open, offering Karlskrona's finest burgers. Worth making time for.

Karlskrona