The Roof of Africa

The only way out is up

Two years confined to a country required a new perspective. In March 2022 I undertook my most challenging adventure. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Braving the highest free-standing mountain in the world and dealing with both the distance and the altitude. After Kili, I safaried through Tanzania and soaked up the sun in Zanzibar.

The full book is available on my blog. You’re welcome to read through the whole experience or, if you prefer, order a hefty coffee table book with all the writing and images you see below to explore in your own time.

Tanzania

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Kendwa
Kendwa

A small touristy village in the far north of Zanzibar on the west coast. Kendwa offers beautiful beaches, warm water and some premium hotels.

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Stone Town
Stone Town

Called Mji Mkongwe in Swahili, Stone Town is a district of the larger Zanzibar City, Stone Town has been the capital of the spice trade and the East African slave trade up until the 20th Century.

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Ngorongoro Crater
Ngorongoro Crater

First listed as a preserve in 1921, 25,000 animals make it their home, including 62 (as of 2001) Lions who suffer inbreeding issues due to the crater’s isolation. Many campsites and hotels dot the rim of the crater, given spectacular views of the inside.

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Serengeti National Park
Serengeti National Park

Established in 1952, the Serengeti National Park is synonymous with Safari. Famed the world over, even those who are unaware it is in Tanzania know the name. It is home to the greatest wildlife spectacle on earth - the great migration of wildebeest and zebra and covers almost 15,000 square kilometres.

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Lake Manayara
Lake Manayara

Offering incredible views over the rift valley escarpment and with two thirds of its area covered by water, the Lake Manyara National Park is something amazing.

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Mto Wa Mbu
Mto Wa Mbu

Directly translated, Mto Wa Mbu means ‘The River of Mosquitos’. This town is often used as a base for Safari tours. Staying overnight in a campsite, it then gives easy access to various nearby National Parks.

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Arusha
Arusha

Despite its population of half a million, tourists would be forgiven to thinking Arusha is more of a staging ground for tours than a thriving city in its own right. Our time there was brief but we made the effort to at least leave the walled compound of our hotel and find a local sports bar.

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Mt Kilimanjaro
Mt Kilimanjaro

Turning 42 on the slopes of Kilimanjaro, I hiked the Machame route from Machame Gate to Uhuru Peak, and down to Mweke Gate.

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Moshi
Moshi

The capital of the Kilimanjaro region, Moshi is named for the smoke that used to come from the volcanic Kilimanjaro. It is one of the main tourist hubs of Tanzania with a variety of hotels and lodges catering for toursits coming for Kilimanjaro, safaris or both.

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Climbing Kilimanjaro

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06 - Mweka Camp - Mweka Gate
06 - Mweka Camp - Mweka Gate

Other than a short rocky section similar to the final stretch to Mweke Camp, the trail is in good condition, but almost everything was aching for the final descent.

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05 - Barafu Camp - Mweka Camp
05 - Barafu Camp - Mweka Camp

You' start the hike at the edge of the Alpine Desert, after about an hour of climbing in the dark you enter the Arctic Zone, but it is incredibly hard to know when you’ve actually reached this point as you are hiking in darkness and seeing very little but the ground under your feet.

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04 - Barranco Camp - Barafu Camp
04 - Barranco Camp - Barafu Camp

Imposing, and surrounding Barranco camp on three sides, the climb up is challenging, but rated as a ‘scramble’ so you don’t need to be an expert. A lot of sites call it the ‘Death Wall’ and throw around terrifying descriptions of how you have to hug the wall to avoid plummeting to your death.

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03 - Shira Camp - Barranco Camp
03 - Shira Camp - Barranco Camp

The Lava Tower is impressive, rising up in front of the campsite, dark stone causing a shadow over the tents. Its easily visble from some distance due to the flat plain around it.

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02 Machame Camp - Shira Camp
02 Machame Camp - Shira Camp

Machame is nestled in the forest, and so is quite free from wind. It also is layed out in clearings and so each group has some small level of privacy from each other.

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01 - Machame Gate - Machame Camp
01 - Machame Gate - Machame Camp

The Gate is one of a handful of entrances to Kilimanjaro and the start of the Machame Route. Many tours will prepare a lunch or breakfast for hikers on their trips, served in covered terraces with seating and long tables.

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