There is iron everywhere in Eskilstuna. In the soul of the city. Full of swords and steel. Nicknamed Stålstaden, there are traces of the dying smelting and manufacturing everywhere. The city guideposts for tourists are constructed of curved steel, the curbs in the Munktel factory area are all metal beams riveted to the street. Everywhere you look, there are subtle and not so subtle signs of the cities pride in its smelting history.

Sights & Culture

Klosters kyrka

Just after one of the main bridges in the centre of town is the imposing brick church, like Växjo, it has a peculiar double spired front. It's easily visible from many spots around the town.

Constructed in 1929, it lacks the history of modern elegance of some churches and so sits uncomfortably in the middle, not quite reaching the style of Art Deco.

Eskilstuna kommun

The central square in Eskilstuna has a large droplet statue and small pond in the centre, a few scattered stalls selling local produce and the large imposing council building at the south end of the square. It's a place for people to gather, have a coffee or chat, and there are signs of more and more cafes opening around the square, something uncommon but desperately needed in Sweden.

Museums & Galleries

Rademachersmedjorna

Sweden loves its outdoor museums, and this is one of the better ones. A preserved section of the old craftsmen's district, buildings for blacksmiths and other artisans and their wives and servants, are preserved and still used. A small cafe, ironworkers and jewellery shop, and an art gallery made good use of the space. Next to every building, there is a board explaining the history and usage of the building and any interesting information about the residents that have been recorded.

For certain days of the year, primarily in the summer, re-enactors make the streets come alive with history and retell stories.

It won't take long to explore the outdoor museum, but it is worth the visit.

Eskilstuna stadsmuseum

On a small island, connected by bridges to either side of Eskilstuna, is the City Museum, set in an old factory. The City Museum is focused, as is not surprising in an industrial town, on the industry, machines and tools they built. The ground floor is full of mechanisms and machines.

A floor up, there are examples of weapons, from swords to missile launchers, that have been created in the city. There is an ambivalence shown to the modern arms industry, recognition of the importance to the cities prosperity perhaps but a conscious awareness of the human cost of weaponry—each one displayed in a scene showing the damage it can do.

There are a series of locomotives in the backroom, in competition perhaps with the Munktell technology museum across the river.

Munktell Museum

Taking up a single warehouse in what was, in the past, the Munktell district is the Munktell Technology Museum. A high ceilinged building filled with machines crated by Munktell and then by Volvo BM after the merger. Still a major employer in the area, it is the Volvo logo now that is internationally known rather than Munktell.

There is also a ten-minute film, put on by request, showcasing the history of Munktell. Worth watching.

Strangely, scattered throughout the museum are a series of antique and well-preserved items of furniture.

Konstmuseum

Also, in the Munktell industrial park, the Art Museum has a permanent and a temporary collection.

Some of the first exhibits you on entering the museum are mechanical devices creating art through movement—a strongly appropriate choice.

The building reminded me strongly of Mjellby Art Museum just outside of Halmstad.

They explicitly ask that you do not take complete photos of the artwork, only partial images, and don't post to social media.

Parks & Gardens

Stadsparken

Loosely the shape of an apostrophe, the city park is directly in front of the Klosters kyrka. It is a good-sized space, with various events that happen in its borders. It runs for some of the lengths of the river, giving nice views over the main town and cooler breezes.

Restaurants & Bars

Papas Tapas Andra sidan:

A tapas place, festooned with British football banners, is split across two venues, on either side of the pedestrian street. The food is good and plentiful, and the staff are friendly.

Restaurang Grappa Matsal & Bar:

A huge space, both indoors and out, feels like Grappa could happily feed the population of Eskilstuna. It offers a good selection of Italian food at reasonable prices.

Eskilstuna